38 Stones & Gems | Jewelry Care

64 Arts
Multi-colored gemstones

Image via Flickr user jaYmE del Rosario, under Creative Commons Attribution 2.0

While I often feel like I’m the reason we can’t have nice things (klutziness does not a jewel protect–good thing diamonds and sapphires are tough!), I do try to take care of my jewelry and keep it clean and shiny so I can wear it any time I get the notion. I mean, even the Hope Diamond wouldn’t look like much covered in dust and grime, right?

But different types of jewelry require different types of care, so let’s take a look at caring for our shiny bits. You never know, you might have an heirloom in the making!

Precious Stones

image via Amazon.com

image via Amazon.com

Since precious stones tend to be up there on the hardness (Mohs) scale, these types of jewelry are the easiest to care for: warm water, a soft toothbrush or paintbrush, and some gentle detergent and you’re pretty much good to go. If you prefer to clean a lot of jewelry all in one go, a table-top ultrasonic cleaner can certainly be used for this type of jewelry with no problem, and there are also affordable steam cleaners for jewelry on the market, too.

When we were shopping for engagement rings the halo ring was (and still is, I think) very popular, and there was a rumor going around that those sorts of rings were harder to clean. While I wouldn’t go so far as to say they’re harder to clean, all those little stones do give additional surfaces (facets!) for dust and grime to collect, making them dull faster than their larger solitaire counterparts. It was about that time that I learned about the Dazzle Stick. Between professional cleanings at the jewelers, I like giving my rings a gentle cleaning with this handy tool to keep them nice and shiny.

Found in the jewelry section of my local Wal-Mart, the Dazzle Stick has cleaning solution that you release into the bristles with a few clicks. Once the bristles are showing blue, you gently swish them into the nooks and crannies in your setting and then rinse it all clean. Since my jewelry is at the mall, this saves me a lot of schlepping out there and, really, isn’t much different than what they do.

Semi-Precious Stones

On the other hand (you see what I did there), semi-precious stones (like my personal favorite, Lapis Lazuli)  tend to be softer and very porous which means they will just soak up water and chemicals and pretty much anything they’re submersed in, often resulting in discolorations and dulling of the stones. Because of this, stay away from the cleaning solutions, even the mild ones, and just use a damp cloth to wipe away any grime or debris should they get messy. If you’re very careful you can still clean the settings or bands with a gentle detergent, but it almost seems more trouble than it’s worth.

Funny, though, as these pretties were once just hunks of rock carved out of mountainsides and caves you’d think they’d be able to stand up to just about anything, right? Still, the process of cutting and setting them into jewelry does tend to make them more fragile, so a little care isn’t too much to ask.

Pearls

Pearls

image via Flickr user Mauro Cateb, under Creative Commons Attribution 2.0

Pearls are simply elegant and gorgeous with their natural shine and luster. This luster actually comes from a thin layer called the nacre and can be damaged easily, so absolutely never use any sorts of chemical or ultrasonic cleaners with them. Pearls, like the metals below, do best when worn–the natural oils from our skin actually help to condition them a bit–but that doesn’t mean that more is necessarily better. Lotions, perfumes, hair products can all damage the finish of pearls, so always put your pearls on last and wipe them down with a soft cloth before putting away.

Gold & Silver

Did you know that precious metal jewelry actually stays cleaner by being worn that by sitting in a box collecting dust and tarnish? It’s true! And while most jewelers will tell you to take off your rings before washing your hands, etc., I see that as a plumber’s bill waiting to happen as he rescues your ring from the pipes under your sink! It is true, however, that bleach can severely damage gold and silver, so removing them before doing housework or going into the pool is a good idea (just make sure you put them somewhere safe).

For regular cleaning a polishing cloth is best–not paper towels or tissue as the tiny wood fibers in there can scratch up a metals finish. White gold is actually regular gold coated with a fine layer of rhodium (in most cases) and some sterling silver gets plated as well to make it whiter and brighter. Over time this finish can wear down and start to look dull, so plan to have regularly worn rings re-plated every 1-2 years; if the shop you bought it in offers a lifetime protection plan, this service is often included for a very nominal fee.

When you do wash your metal jewelry, with or without stones, be careful not to let the water too hot. While the harder stones would be fine, sterling silver especially can tarnish in water that’s too hot, though a good buffing should be able to make the tarnish disappear.

Costume Jewelry

Yes, even this sort of sparkle can use some cautious care. Considering what we pay for our less-precious but just as fun pieces, it’s no surprise that they may not be built to last. When in doubt, follow the care instructions for the materials it’s trying to be, but toned down a bit. In other words, if you’ve got a crystal and gold-tone brooch, you can probably wash it in lukewarm water (too hot and you could damage the glue the stones are set with) but skip the detergents. The soft, lint-free cloth is never a bad idea.

And don’t think that just because you’ve got some brightly color plastic jewelry in your stash it can withstand anything! I have a few pieces left over from the 80s (yes, really) and they will fade if left in direct sunlight and become brittle with lots of temperature changes, just like the semi-precious stones in my collection.

It’s a good idea–and a pretty grown-up sort of thing–to forge a relationship with a jeweler, even if that jeweler works at or for a large chain. At some point you’ll need a repair done (especially if you’re like me, an aforementioned klutz) and unless you decide to take up metal-smithing as a hobby, it’s not going to be something even the most adept diy-er can handle. Look around your circle (maybe up one generation if need be) and see who wears nice jewelry on a regular basis and ask them who they trust.

How to you care for your jewelry?

38 Stones & Gems | Birthstones 101

64 Arts
image via the American Gem Trade Association

image via the American Gem Trade Association

Moving on from home decorating to decorating ourselves, it’s onward to the next art on this list:

38 Expert Knowledge of Stones and Gems

and going ahead and combining it with (because, really, why separate them?)

40 Valuing the Shape and Color of Stones

Despite the fact that I have serious issues with the way the word ‘expert’ is bandied about these days, let’s see what we can dig up about precious and semi-precious stones, starting with the first ones many of us likely encountered: out birthstones.

Matching stones with dates of birth (astrologically speaking, at least) goes back to biblical times, but the list we know as the birthstone guide only goes back to 1700’s Poland and was only set in stone–if you’ll pardon the pun–by the National Association of Jewelers in 1912. And while they don’t come right out and say it, I wouldn’t be at all surprised if it wasn’t in an attempt to encourage more spending back in the day.

These poems were put out by the famous Tiffany & Co as early as 1870, though, so the practice of shopping by birthstone certainly isn’t new.

By her who in this month (January) is born
No gem save garnets should be worn;
They will ensure her constancy,
True friendship, and fidelity.

The February-born shall find
Sincerity and peace of mind,
Freedom from passion and from care,
If they an amethyst will wear.

Who in this world of ours their eyes
In March first open shall be wise,
In days of peril firm and brave,
And wear a bloodstone to their grave.

She who from April dates her years,
Diamonds shall wear, lest bitter tears
For vain repentance flow; this stone,
Emblem of innocence, is known.

Who first beholds the light of day
In spring’s sweet flowery month of May
And wears an emerald all her life
Shall be a loved and happy wife.

Who comes with summer to this earth,
And owes to June her hour of birth,
With ring of agate on her hand
Can health, wealth, and long life command.

The glowing ruby shall adorn,
Those who in July are born;
Then they’ll be exempt and free
From love’s doubts and anxiety.Wear a sardonyx or for thee,
No conjugal felicity;
The August-born without this stone,
`Tis said, must live unloved and lone.A maiden born when September leaves
Are rustling in September‘s breeze,
A sapphire on her brow should bind
`Twill cure diseases of the mind.

October‘s child is born for woe,
And life’s vicissitudes must know,
But lay an opal on her breast,
And hope will lull those woes to rest.

Who first comes to this world below
With drear November‘s fog and snow,
Should prize the topaz‘s amber hue,
Emblem of friends and lovers true.

If cold December gave you birth,
The month of snow and ice and mirth,
Place on your hand a turquoise blue;
Success will bless whate’er you do.

Old ideas for old stones, yes? But it does give us an idea of the “powers” or features they used to ascribe to the bits of mineral elevated to the status of gems.

Some stones have received an update over the years. March is now more popularly aquamarine, for instance, June usually a pearl or moonstone, August to peridot, and blue topaz and tanzanite often sub in for December’s turquoise. And for the curious, sardonyx is a form of onyx with red bands instead of the black we’re more used to seeing.

I used to be quite excited about diamond as my birthstone, when I was still young enough not to realize how ghastly expensive they are! Now that I’m older and know more about why those shiny bits of carbon are so expensive (and the grief these inflated costs cause to so many for so little, really), I’m far less enamored of them these days, preferring the alternate stone of white sapphire if I had to wear one at all.

Still, a well-cut stone sparkling in the sunlight is certainly beautiful.

And those cuts and shapes are what give the stones their final worth. You’ve probably heard of the 4 C’s of diamond buying, and they apply more or less to other stones as well.

Cut, contrary to popular opinion, refers to the number of facets the finished stone has, not it’s shape. The more facets, the more surfaces there are for light to bounce around upon, and the more sparkle your jewelry displays.

Color, on the other hand, is exactly what it sounds like. Generally the less color in a diamond the better, though clever marketing has made even black diamonds more sought after these days. In gemstones that are not usually white/clear, the depth of color is more a personal preference.

Clarity sounds a lot like color, but really it has to do with the natural character (or defects) of the stone: inclusions (deviations within the stone itself) and blemishes (flaws on the outside of the gem). It really goes hand-in-hand with cut, above, and how the light bounces around the stone.

Finally, Carat is simply the size–by weight–of a stone. A single carat equals 200 milligrams  and each carat is measured in points. Since there are 100 points in a carat, then each point weighs 2 milligrams. This is what they mean when you see a cocktail ring with lots of smaller stones or a bracelet with oodles of chips in it described not in total carat weight but in points.

Not all gems are evaluated by the same criteria and with the same scrutiny of diamonds, but it’s good to know the basics at the very least.

It’s worth noting, too, that these days it’s not at all uncommon to see lab-created stones right next to their natural counterparts in a jeweler’s case and the one way you’d know it is by looking at the price tag. Fact is, lab-created stones are exactly the same as the natural ones they mimic, not mere stand-ins like cubic zirconia was/is for diamonds in costume jewelry, and might even be better in some respects as those inclusions and blemishes don’t happen in the lab the way they do in nature.

Both my engagement and wedding rings feature lab-created sapphires and I couldn’t be happier about it–I get all the sparkle without feeling guilty about how much they cost Todd.

What’s your opinion on birthstones?

37 Home Decor | It’s A Frame Up!

64 Arts

Displaying Art in Your Home Space

You know, I used to think it was terribly vain to display my own art at home. For the longest time the only painting of mine to be on the wall was the one I had to frame for the student show back in 2004 or thereabouts.

Color study still life by Jennifer Walker

Some day I’ll frame the feather panel that was originally part of this piece.

Some time last year, though, I changed my attitude. I don’t know if it was anything major that shifted or just that I was running out of places to store finished work except the walls, but I started with a cork board above my computer and then started hanging different projects I created for Gauche Alchemy, etc. Now my gallery wall is a nice piece of inspiration in my home office and I look forward to filling up the rest of the wall space in there!

Obviously I did not use a level to hang some of these. Gotta fix that ASAP!

Obviously I did not use a level to hang some of these. Gotta fix that ASAP!

There’s really no rhyme or reason with my gallery wall, I just pick the best place by size when i have something new to hang up. Overall I try to keep a certain balance going, but since this wall is a work in progress, it’s going to be a bit off now and then.

I love my medal bar signs--I even leave the Halloween ones up all year.

I love my medal bar signs–I even leave the Halloween ones up all year.

We did something similar in the dining room above the bar, only this was a more deliberate grouping of tin signs and other objects. The large center canvas is newer than the rest of the groupings, and I’m still not sure that’s where it’s going to stay (which is why it’s still overlapping one of my tin signs).

Regardless of whether it’s framed photographs, paintings, prints, or shadowboxes filled with collected items, I think art on the walls makes a space feel more lived in, more alive, and more soothing all at the same time. Most of my items are wrapped canvases, but for everything else I like to find a frame that’s large enough to hold my art plus at least 6 inches, then cut the mat myself.

image via Amazon.com

image via Amazon.com

I have the Logan Do It Yourself Mat Cutting Kit (that I picked up at Michaels years ago with that ever-important 40% off coupon) that makes cutting straight and beveled mats pretty simple (though you’ll want a self-healing mat to protect your work surface, too).

But what about those items that don’t frame easily? The prints and ATCs (artist trading cards) and other things without sufficient border to slip behind a mat? There’s always the shadowbox option, just mount whatever you’ve got to the backing board and go. You can also drill or punch holes in the corners of canvas board and attach a hanger that way, like I did with my Shower Inspiration piece.

But for the 4×6 art card I received from my swap partner, Michelle, I wanted a way to show it off without permanently adhering it (since it has equally awesome sides). Here’s how I solved this riddle.

Now to decide where on my wall this one should go!

Now to decide where on my wall this one should go!

First I dug out a suitably sized frame from the tote of random frames I have in the garage. The glass and backing board are long gone–who know what I did with it–but that’s okay! I cut a piece of foam core exactly the side of the rear opening and made sure it fit snugly.

Doesn't everyone have a tote full of random frames? No?

Doesn’t everyone have a tote full of random frames? No?

Then I found a piece of card stock that would work as a background for the 4×6 card without distracting from it and cut it just slightly smaller than the foam core.

The royal blue picks up on some of the splatters in the background of the art card but still stands out enough from the black edges.

The royal blue picks up on some of the splatters in the background of the art card but still stands out enough from the black edges.

Adhere the card stock to the foam core–I used double-sided tape, but a glue stick would work just as well, I’m sure–and then fit the covered foam core into the frame to stay. Mine was a pretty tight fit as is, but if you have a little wiggle room, it’s not a bad idea to secure the backing into place in whatever way seems best.

Another option--useful if the card is very bulky--would be to attach ribbon straps to the corners of the backing board before securing it, so you could slip the card into place.

Another option–useful if the card is very bulky–would be to attach ribbon straps to the corners of the backing board before securing it, so you could slip the card into place.

Since I wanted to make sure I could remove the card or flip sides whenever I wanted, I used clear photo mounts at each corner to hold the card in place. All done!

Have you thought of adding any art to your space, lately?

37 Home Decor | Bedroom on the Orient Express

64 Arts

Have you ever seen something that makes you stop in your tracks as your eyes widen and you lean in to get a closer look, utterly captivated?

That’s how I felt when I saw this picture :

Photographer: Hotze Eisma, from a Travel & Leisure article (I think)

Photographer: Hotze Eisma, for a Travel & Leisure article (I think)

Isn’t it delicious?!

For quite a while I’ve been “over” the current color scheme of our bedroom. It’s a watered-down version of what I dreamed up in my last apartment, kind of a Moroccan boudoir sort of vibe with deep reds and plush drapes, only when we moved in together I never got up the gumption to hang up the sheers over the boring off-white walls or even hang any pictures. And in the meantime the comforter that I searched high and low for is showing its age–the room desperately needs a makeover.

I’ll even show you what I mean.

The Before

The Before

Technically there’s nothing wrong with the room, it’s perfectly functional (if a bit snug), and we’re the only ones that see it and most of the time we’re asleep. So why the big deal?

I like having a pretty space to sleep in. A nicely-decorated room is relaxing to me.

So a course has been set, based on my inspiration photo and a few more I’ve found and added to the Pinterest board I created for the project. Thankfully the classic cars of the Orient Express are Art Deco (one of my favorite eras already) and inspiration abounds from that era and its subsequent revivals. And, of course, we’re still renting at the moment, so the walls will need to stay their current hue (I just hate painting only to repaint back to drab in the future), so I was searching for rooms that had the wonderful details that I loved but with pale walls instead of dark wood.

I love Pinterest for visual research, don't you?

I love Pinterest for visual research, don’t you?

I was able to create my color scheme using my original inspiration photo and the CoffeeShop Instant Color Bar action for Photoshop.

Our new color palette!

Our new color palette!

Of course, budget is worth a mention. Namely, my current utter lack of one what with the wedding coming up in a shade over 7 months and the economy not exactly doing our industry any favors. But, hey, that’s where I luck out, too–I’ve got some diy plans that just might make this makeover possible without too much difficulty or expense.

First of all, linens can make a dramatic change in a room. Take a look at the above photo and notice that the linens are pretty simple: solid linens and a striped blanket. The patterned section below is actually the sofa seat if I’m not mistaken, but I love the pattern as a box-spring cover idea, and can search out some fabric to accomplish the same task. And since we’re heading into Florida’s warmer season (we only get 2, you know–chilly and hot-as-blazes), a nice blanket will be quite enough and give me plenty of time to find something heavier by late-Fall. By that same token, I’ll be on the look-out for some curtain panels to replace the red ones currently closing off our closets; I can see more trips to HomeGoods in my future!

Thankfully, our bedside tables and lamps will work for this idea as is–just need to recover the lampshades in that divine dusty pink once I’ve got the rest of the linens sorted out. A quick search is telling me I’ll be more likely to find a blanket in a tan pattern (stripe or plaid) and be able to accent it with a pink throw more realistically than finding a blanket exactly like the one in the photo. I think I can work with that.

Now that’s the purchased portion, what was that about some DIY?

Todd’s dresser stand-in is high on my list. One of these days we’ll build or buy something more permanent, but until then I found my inspiration in this Stanhope Chest found on Joss & Main:

Stanhope Chest via Joss & Main

Stanhope Chest via Joss & Main

I have a hunch that some silver spray paint, nailhead trim, and faux leather strips can transform those Sterlite stacking drawers into something pretty spiffy and steamer trunk-inspired. The same applies to our current headboard. Under yet another curtain panel hides a rather country headboard but with a nice shape. I plan to trim off the posts at each end and cover the whole thing with faux-leather and nailhead trim. I’m still deciding if I’ll do the same to the foot board, though we could also remove it altogether (and remove my tendency to hang things on it in the process).

The window, I think, needs a pull-down shade to hide the horrible mini-blinds, and then maybe some sheer swags on either side–I may have enough canvas yardage in my fabric stash for the shade and the antique gold sheers I used on my apartment walls might work well for the swag; if so, that’s a few trips saved to the cutting table. I’ll be on the hunt for a trunk or bench that will afford some extra storage so I can finally empty those boxes hanging out in that space, currently. Add some artwork for the painfully bare walls (some panels painted and lacquered a la the inspiration board would be divine) and we’ve got ourselves a room worth dreaming in and about!

I’ll be sure to keep you posted as the room comes together.

Have you ever gotten the urge to redo a room? I’d love to see some before and after shots!
And do you have any tips for my room makeover?

37 Home Decor | Crazy For You: Crazy-Quilted Pillow Covers are Tops for Upcycling Fabric

64 Arts, Projects

Quilting is an age-old tradition of making lovely textiles from bits and pieces of fabrics. While many times these fabrics are purchased with a certain project in mind, quilting can be a fabulous way to use up leftover scraps or rescue fabric from clothes that are headed to a rag bin just because a portion is worn or stained. But a lot of quilting patterns require cutting certain shapes, which can make using those scraps a little tougher.

Enter the Crazy Quilt. Not quite a scary as it sounds, a crazy quilt is simply one without a set pattern. You can see the basics on my How to Crazy Quilt article (back from my eHow days), but the gist is you layer bits and pieces of fabric onto a foundation piece and create a fabric collage of sorts. Then you can embellish to your hearts content.

By the way: Not only is March National Craft Month, March 16th, 2013, is also National Quilting Day–why not give crazy quilting a try?

In our discussion of throw pillows last week I did, rather casually, mention making your own. This might seem like a big task if you’re not handy around needle and thread (much less zippers, button holes and the rest) but I can assure you it really is a simple process.

After all, one of the first things they seemed* to teach in middle school Home Ec. classes was how to make a pillow!

For today’s project I pulled out some crazy quilted panels that I started years ago. I’d been meaning to turn these panels into pillows for some time (yes, they are the same panels from the eHow article posted 4 years ago…they’ve been aging…like wine…or something like that). I finished up a bit of embellishment that had been pinned on (yes, for 4 years–look, it’s finished now is what counts) over the weekend and then whipped up these 2 throw pillows last night.

Two crazy-quilted pillow covers, all ready for snuggling.

Two crazy-quilted pillow covers, all ready for snuggling.

Now, here’s the thing. Even if we ignore the 4 years this project sat dormant, crazy quilting–just like any quilting–takes time and effort. I didn’t want to just have the 2 panels I’d made used up all at once. No, I think if you can put in a sincere amount of work on something and then stretch out its use you get way more bang for your buck, so instead of just trimming the panels to size and adding a back, I cut each panel into 4 and added some fabric from my stash to finish the pillow front.

Here’s a diagram of just how this worked:

This is one way to "sash" your way around a focal panel, the other is to cut 2 pieces 8.5" long and 2 pieces 15" long--it's a bit more straightforward on the sewing end, but not as pretty, I think.

This is one way to “sash” your way around a focal panel, the other is to cut 2 pieces 8.5″ long and 2 pieces 15″ long–it’s a bit more straightforward on the sewing end, but not as pretty, I think.

However you put together the front panel, the back panels are the real trick to quick throw pillows. What makes them so simple is the utter lack of zippers, buttons, snaps, or any other fasteners to fiddle with. Instead, you cut 2 pieces of your fabric the same size as your front panel (in my case I was using a 14″ pillow form, so my finished front and 2 backs are each 15 inches square (allowing for a 1/2-inch seam allowance all the way around) and overlap them to create a pocket fold.

Start by hemming one side of each of your backing pieces by folding over the bottom 1 inch, pinning, and sewing along the length.

Tip: I use corsage pins for just about everything--they're easier to grab and way easier to find when you drop one!

Tip: I use corsage pins for just about everything–they’re easier to grab and way easier to find when you drop one!

Then place the pillow front (right side up) on your work surface, and one of the back pieces (right side down) and fold that hemmed edge up about a third of the pillow length.

Folding the hemmed edge up creates a nice, soft edge for your pocket in the back.

Folding the hemmed edge up creates a nice, soft edge for your pocket in the back.

Do the same with the second pillow back, but coming from the opposite side. This way the two folded-back pieces overlap. Pin the whole sandwich together securely and sew all the way around the perimeter of the pillow case, using a 1/2-inch seam allowance.

The 3 layers are all pinned together to prevent slipping and now ready to zip through a sewing machine.

The 3 layers are all pinned together to prevent slipping and now ready to zip through a sewing machine.

Once sewn, all you need to do is turn the case inside out and insert your pillow form.

Showing both the front and the back of my finished throw pillows. The microsuede is incredibly soft and very durable, too!

Showing both the front and the back of my finished throw pillows. The microsuede is incredibly soft and very durable, too!

I used some navy blue microsuede I found in my blue fabric stash for the back fabrics, so while the front of the pillows are visually interesting, the backs are soft and petable.   If I wanted, I could add some fabric-covered buttons or even these Dorset Buttons (another of my old eHow articles) and have truly double-sided pillows.

For that matter, so could you!

How about it, are you up for some crazy quilting or simple pillow making? I’d love to see what you made!

Oh, and if you want one more bit of throw-pillow inspiration, check out the “shabby applique” technique I made up also back in my eHow days.

——————–

*As evidenced by other students carrying them around–I took band instead of home ec/art.